David George
Cruise fanatic and guest-blogger David shares his account of this recent Mediterranean cruise on Oriana
For serial cruisers - and my travel agent happily assures me that I qualify for inclusion in this fast-growing group - there is one question that will often generate lively debate. Which element of a cruise holiday is more important, the ship or the itinerary? Is it the quoits and the quizzes, the cabins and the cuisine - or is it the excitement of exotic ports of call and the chance to experience different cultures?
Last month when I boarded P&O Cruises’ Oriana I had the perfect opportunity to research the matter.
Thirty days in the eastern Mediterranean in November gave me pause for thought in terms of the weather but the itinerary was definitely right. We were sailing to places I had never visited before, on board a ship I have always rated highly. In fact, the weather could not have been better with temperatures soaring well into the 80s when we sailed eastwards through the Med to Port Said and the sun continued to shine for the best part of our 8729 nautical miles - including over Malaga, our final call before Southampton.
As a big fan of the Indiana Jones’ movies, Petra in Jordan was my priority excursion and judging by the number of coaches that departed the port of Aqaba, many others felt as I did.
The 80-mile journey was a wonderful experience in itself - a chance to admire the vast desert landscape, home to Bedouin tribes for centuries and home too to Lawrence who led the Bedouins’ forays to sabotage Turkish supply lines in the First World War. At Wadi Rum, a natural desert stronghold, purple-coloured mountains rise up from the pink desert and it came as no surprise to hear from our guide that this haunting location was selected for the filming of Lawrence of Arabia.
We came face-to-face with young Bedouins when we reached Petra, a mystical kingdom with a history that stretches back to the 5th century BC. A powerful Arab tribe, the Nabataeans, carved the city out of rock and over the years it became a wealthy fortress, commanding trade routes from the East and Arabia. After the Crusades, Petra declined into obscurity but was rediscovered in the early 18th century.
Entry to Petra is by a narrow mile-long chasm but Bedhouin horsemen were on hand to offer rides to visitors who prefer not to walk. These rides are free of charge but more comfortable transport in the form of horse and trap is not and I talked to more than one passenger who took the easy option only to be stung for $40.
My group walked both ways and the first glimpse of the Treasury with its wonderfully carved façade of a tomb is one I won’t forget. As you walk between soaring rock faces the full beauty of the 130 feet high tomb is slowly revealed and its dramatic impact stopped us in our tracks. No wonder the location was chosen to film The Temple of Doom!
Judith and Chris from Hartlepool summed up the thoughts of many. “Petra was magnificent,” Judith told me, “but so was the overall organisation. More than twenty coachloads of people went there, yet we didn’t queue for very long at all because arrivals were staggered. The same happened at lunchtime. Different hotels were used to minimize waiting time and ours was brilliant. The food was excellent - and there was free wine too!”
With the sun dipping behind the horizon, we drove back to Aqaba and reached Oriana in good time for dinner. Conversation naturally focused on the wonders of Petra but by the time my blackberry cheesecake had arrived, our thoughts had turned to the likelihood of whether any other destinations could match what we’d seen in Jordan. Well yes, they could. The Valley of the Kings, the Pyramids, Jerusalem, Bethlehem, the Sea of Galilee and Istanbul also provided amazing sights and experiences, each proving that the careful selection of appropriate excursions really does enhance the overall enjoyment of a cruise.
Apart from places that are rightly regarded as great wonders of the world, smaller ports had their attractions too. My favourite was Rhodes. We moored there for more than 48 hours so that divers could carry out routine maintenance to one of the propellers and I would happily have stayed longer.
The medieval walled town is a mix of narrow streets, old walls and gates, battlements and mosques . . . and is traffic-free: just the place to pause for a quiet coffee at one of the many family-owned café bars.
Life on Oriana remains as relaxing as ever and sea days provided much-needed respite from busy schedules ashore. It never fails to surprise me just how many of the crew remember our faces. Within hours of boarding, Reseca in the library had greeted me like a member of the family and at the Captain’s very jolly Welcome Aboard party, Babu came across to say hello. Not only that, he used my name! To my shame I had to glance at his badge before I could remember his. After all, the last time we met had been three years ago when Babu was our dinner waiter on Aurora. For me, this close passenger-crew relationship sums up a major attraction of cruising. So many of the ship’s company treat you as a returning friend and that’s not something that can always be said when revisiting a favourite hotel for a land-based holiday.
Oriana is now a child-free ship and I was interested to look at the new accommodation on Deck 8 where the play area used to be. The cabins are bright and fresh, of course, and another bonus is that the aft pool is now an additional facility for adults. I used it several times and appreciated its plain oblong shape: a good pool for swimmers.
Jaison, the restaurant manager in Peninsular, inspired good service from his team and Carl, the executive chef, delivered some lovely meals. Our waiter was a great character, keen to hear about our adventures and happy to share details about his forthcoming marriage. Ice cream became a regular addition to our desserts and to his credit Cyril didn’t panic when one evening we had the urge for some good old-fashioned egg and chips, rather than choose from the grander items on the menu. Without a murmur our choices arrived, although I did notice a slightly puzzled look.
Of the other outlets, we celebrated a friend’s birthday in the Ocean Grill. Here a supplement is paid but it was worth it. My prime haddock in “The Governor” beer batter was superb with the triple-cooked chips complementing it perfectly. Afterwards I fell in love with Marco’s sherry trifle Wally Ladd.
It was so creamy that I would have eaten another but, with the pounds piling on, I’m pleased I didn’t say as much. Knowing how attentively we were being served under the watchful eye of restaurant manager, Reginald (formerly manager at Café Bordeaux on Aurora and thus a man with the proper pedigree to oversee the Grill), my guess is that a second portion would have promptly been placed before me.
Entertainment and daytime activities were as varied as ever. I attended the art classes and benefited from one of the best teachers I have ever had. Easa led us through a range of watercolour techniques with good humour and he gave his time freely. Lessons set for 45 minutes extended to 90, both morning and afternoon if you wanted to attend (most of us did), and indeed Easa was never happier than when he could go on even longer.
After one lunch break he announced triumphantly: “Today we have plenty of time, ladies and gentleman. I have been told we can go on until 4 o’clock . . . . tomorrow morning!” Easa’s dry wit and artistic knowledge was a major cruise highlight and I returned home with 16 paintings, some of which I might even risk showing to friends.
Our cruise sailed by all too quickly. Thirty days seemed a long time when we embarked but, as ever, once we’d reached the halfway point, time raced on and soon we were heading home through a calm Bay of Biscay. So, what’s it be? Is the ship more important than the ports visited, or vice versa? For me, the ship is the priority and I couldn’t have asked for more from Oriana. She remains on top form – a comfortable and well maintained cabin, good food, excellent service and some fine entertainment – but the wonders of Petra have made me appreciate that the ports really can transform a cruise from successful to outstanding.
I caught up with Helen, Oriana’s Executive Purser, towards the end of the cruise. Helen hails from the Wirral and has worked for P&O Cruises for 15 years, starting as an assistant at Reception before working her way up to become head of the Hotel Department 18 months ago. I asked her about P&O’s famed customer loyalty.
“Our feedback tells us that what people value most is the peace of mind that comes from knowing that we will always work hard to achieve the highest possible standards of service and I think most times we succeed. We want people to be happy and we want them to come back to us; it’s as simple as that. Being on Oriana, or on any of the fleet’s ships, is like a little piece of home away from home. You have all the excitement of exotic places to visit but know that home comforts await you when you return on board.”
Exactly. Cruise holidays at their best are all about new horizons and good old-fashioned hospitality and this mix keeps bringing me back for more. Time, I’d say, to visit my travel agent again.
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