A feast of football in Lisbon

Shore Excursions Media Co-Ordinator

Football fans, cast your mind back to the summer of 2004.  Euro 2004 to be precise, England v Portugal. England’s ‘golden generation’ are within touching distance of the semi-finals and inevitable glory. The spirit of ’66!  England’s lions roar to victory! Knighthoods all round! All that stands in their way is a simple penalty shoot-out…  

Anyway, you know the rest. But one thing you may not remember about that crazy night in Lisbon is the magnificent stadium where the game was held. Estádio da Luz – ‘the Stadium of Light.’

Built especially for Euro 2004, the stadium is now the home of FC Benfica, one of Portugal’s biggest football clubs. And thanks to an excellent shore excursion in Lisbon, you can now take a unique behind the scenes look at Estádio da Luz.

If you’re thinking ‘but I'm not a Benfica fan’ then don’t let that put you off. I took this excursion myself recently, and can confirm that it doesn't matter whether you support Benfica or Basingstoke Town - as long as you have a passion for the ‘beautiful game’ you should find this tour fascinating (as demonstrated by my excellent tour guide Lina, who told me that she’s actually a lifelong fan of Benfica’s biggest rivals, Sporting Lisbon… don’t tell the boss!)  

Exploring the hidden workings of the stadium is a real eye opener. You get to sit in the press room - the place where journalists throw questions at players and coaches.  

You’ll also see the visitor dressing rooms; its walls covered with pictures of Benfica’s roaring supporters… especially designed to put the fear into opponents. It must work, as Benfica are one of the most successful clubs in Portuguese football, with 32 league titles to their name.

But amidst all the triumph, Benfica has also seen tragedy. In January 2004, 24 year old striker Miklos Feher collapsed and died during a match.   

In a moving and graphic tribute, the very kit he was wearing when he died is displayed in a glass cabinet.

His football boots bear the mud and scuffs of that same match, and harrowingly, his shirt is ripped and shredded from the attempts to restart his heart. It’s a sobering tribute that stops you in your tracks.

Of course, no stadium tour would be complete without striding along the players tunnel. But where this tour excels from others, is that you are actually guided around the perimeter of the pitch, giving you a player’s eye view of the stadium.  

Packed with 65,000 supporters on match day, the atmosphere is said to be buzzing. But there’s something just as special about standing in this vast stadium while it’s eerily empty; the only sounds coming from the lawnmowers of the ground staff.  Oh, and the occasional squawk of eagles… that’s right, eagles.   Meet the club’s real life mascots, Vitória and Glória, (Victory and Glory.)

How’s this for a quirky pre-match ritual…. on match day, either Vitória or Glória fly around the stadium, rousing the crowd before the big game. They then land atop an emblem, creating a ‘live’ version of the Benfica club badge. As far as football mascots go, this sure beats watching someone in an oversized animal costume dancing beside the pitch.

Vitória and Glória actually live in the stadium, and by day sit perched behind the goal, keeping a beady eye on proceedings. It’s quite an unusual sight, seeing these two bald eagles sat together in an empty football stadium. But that’s why this tour is so fascinating… it gives you the opportunity to scratch beneath the surface of this famous club, and discover more than just its triumphs and trophy cabinet.