David George
Our guest reviewer David George has waited a long time for his chance to see New England at its best. Arcadia delivered the dream, as well as the added colour and excitement of New York, Quebec... and even Sydney and Venice!
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Arcadia |
If it hadn't been for the razor wire, the security cameras at 50 metre intervals and guards at the wrought iron gates, we would have had no idea that somebody rather important lived in the imposing pre-war mansion set high on a promontory looking out across the Atlantic. But we were on an optional excursion to Kennebunkport in Maine and our guide, a retired teacher, explained that this was the summer home of two former US presidents, known locally as Bushes 1 and 2, or George and ‘W’. But security was even tighter when they were in power; in those days there was a nuclear-powered submarine stationed offshore as well.
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Autumn shades - Kennebunkport |
It is details like this that make P&O Cruises optionals worthwhile, as is the reassurance that Arcadia would not be leaving port without us should we return late. I’d chosen the excursion for an insight into small-town America and Kennebunkport fitted the bill with its clapboard church, cottage library and even - outside the general store sitting on the veranda - two of Barbara Bush's pugs, resplendent in clowns' ruffs and gratefully accepting donations for a local animal charity.
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The former First Lady's dogs |
After a day ashore, returning on board Arcadia - one of P&O Cruises adults-only mid-sized ships - is always a treat with standards of comfort and luxury that compare with many a 5-star hotel. I’d opted for a midship cabin on G deck because I knew it would place me at the very heart of the action: close to Reception where queries can be answered or the daily newspaper collected, near the Loyalty Manager’s office where I could drool over future cruise plans and – importantly for me – just one deck below Spinnakers’ bar for a Costa coffee, Lower Meridian restaurant for Club Dining each evening, and the Palladium theatre for a good seat. My friends on C deck were just as keen about their location – closer to the Lido deck for sunbathing and swimming, they said, and nearer to the Crow’s Nest on Deck 11 for a pre-dinner drink or musical recital.
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The Crow's Nest |
So you pay your money and take your choice – and yes, I booked early because this is a popular cruise and I like to choose my cabin.
When I first sailed with P&O Cruises seven years ago, the 25-day
New England cruise captured my imagination immediately but, because of work, it has taken until now to turn the dream into reality. This cruise has just about everything, from the sights and sounds of big cities and elegant small towns to the prospect of rich autumn colours as Arcadia steams north then west into the St Lawrence River. The weather we had, a mixture of sunshine and showers so typical of October, underscored for me the beauty and contrasts of New England and Canada in the Fall.
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New England in the Fall |
The officers and crew delivered levels of service that were second to none, the result of Captain Aseem Hashmi’s assured leadership as Master. Every day he could be seen around the ship, happy to chat, and each day he gave at least two announcements that not only reflected his commitment to passenger safety but also information about the ship’s location and progress. With storm clouds brewing mid Atlantic the Captain provided further updates, explaining his planned route diversions.
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Captain Hashmi |
I met up with him in the Crow’s Nest. There can’t be many captains who are also qualified airline pilots but Captain Hashmi is one of this rare breed. “I joined British Airways and trained on Boeing 737s,” he told me, “but when I qualified the economic downturn meant I was grounded along with many other pilots and so I decided on a career change from air to sea.” It was in 1995 that he joined Cunard as a deck cadet, later transferring to P&O before recently being appointed to his first command. I suggested that for a family man to switch careers so dramatically took guts but he would have none of it. “I still love aeroplanes and one of my hobbies is building model aircraft, but being in command of a ship like Arcadia is a dream come true and I wouldn’t change it for the world.”
I asked about his favourite port and after some thought he plumped for New York. “As soon as I see the Ambrose lights (the directional lights for JFK Airport) and begin the final approach, I’m struck by a sense of history as I think about the thousands of immigrants who arrived by sea to rebuild their lives in the New World. And as we sail closer, the dramatic New York skyline reveals itself – a truly unique sight.”
I couldn’t agree more. Immigration was rapid (I was out of the terminal by 8.15) and because we parked midtown New York, I was in 42nd Street within another 20 minutes. As I walked, all the images gleaned from Hollywood movies became reality –
Broadway, Grand Central Station (more a cathedral dedicated to trains than a mere station), Rockefeller, New York Public Library, St Patrick’s Cathedral, Central Park, Radio City. These classic icons were all within walking distance of Arcadia and it was only on our second day that I needed the subway to reach the World Trade Centre.
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Broadway |
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The view from The Rock |
No evidence of age was required to secure a seniors’ fare to the top of ‘the Rock’ (the elevator ascends 70 floors to the top of the Rockefeller Centre in just 55 seconds) and there was no queuing at 09.30 when I arrived. Whilst every city has its risks, I found nothing but friendliness. In Central Park, a mounted policeman walked me to the John Lennon memorial in Strawberry Fields and later in a café a young lawyer couldn’t have been more helpful poring over my map to show me the shortest route to Grand Central Station.
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Grand Central Station |
Crossing the Atlantic led to new friendships and a chance to know the crew better. As a result most dinners were spent chatting about adventures in port. In Lower Meridian, Dominic and Theo – our restaurant managers – organised the sittings with their customary expertise and they inspired excellent service. Our waiter, Pylon, was brilliant. He soon recognised my sweet tooth and noted that desserts were incomplete without ice cream. My current diet is proof of just how good he was!
In the Galley, Executive Chef Ian Summers managed the preparation of thousands of meals day after day. Okay, chips aren’t everything but I have yet to find crisper and hotter ones than those on this cruise, a perfect accompaniment for sirloin steaks, and the fish – whether lobster, trout, cod or sea bass – was always moist and tasty. Up in Belvedere, Arcadia’s self-service outlet, I couldn’t keep away from the sandwiches and cakes at teatime, and freshly baked scones - still warm – were rarely ignored. Themed evenings in Belvedere offered an enjoyable alternative to dining in Meridian; amongst others, there were Greek, Italian and Best of British nights, but my favourite was the Indian and I wasn’t alone. On Lido deck, Neptune Grill proved ideal on a sunny day for things like salads, pizzas and freshly-fried fish and chips.
Activities offered by Entertainment Manager, Christine Noble, were many and varied. Apart from talks by guest speakers, quizzes, films galore, sports events like quoits, cricket and table tennis, and coffee mornings for solo travellers, there were production shows in the Palladium as well as appearances by guest singers, musicians and comics. Fogwell Flax scored highly with his comedy act and his second show, full of impersonations, proved to be just as popular.
Early in the cruise, an Arcadia Choir was set up by a passenger and on the last day a concert was given in The Globe. “People Will Say We’re In Love” from Oklahoma was sung beautifully as was a sad but humorous song about two lovelorn goslings – no wonder a choir member was reduced to tears when one of the birds ended up as fare for the Christmas table! “I thoroughly enjoyed taking part in rehearsals,” passenger Tony Pickard from York told me later. “It was good fun and our conductor, Malcolm Hatton, directed with great sensitivity.”
The Passenger and Crew talent show was just as successful, the undoubted star being waiter Vic Brian with his delivery of “Endless Love”, a song first recorded by Diana Ross and Lionel Ritchie. How would Vic cope delivering a duet? With his right side disguised as Ross, including a half-mountain of hair and a single high heel, and his left as Ritchie, the timing was perfect. No wonder the laugher and applause almost raised the roof!
If New York was dazzling and huge, Quebec was elegant and manageable. I loved both. Arcadia parked beneath the towering Chateau Frontenac, a handsome Gallic creation and home of the station hotel.
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Arcadia |
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Chateau Frontenac |
My friends and I chose to walk up to the old town but there is a
funicular for those who want to avoid the climb. The narrow cobbled streets make a picturesque setting and for lovers of paintings and antiques, there are numerous little shops and stalls to browse. Outside homes and across grand public spaces I was struck with just how important Halloween is in Quebec. Whoever markets the pumpkins must be doing a roaring trade!
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Halloween in Quebec |
Midlanders Elizabeth and David Nicholls told me that during their walk on the first day they spotted an opportunity outside Quebec’s parliament to book a free tour of the building. There are three a day and each one lasts 45 minutes. “We visited both the upper and lower chambers with a guide who explained the different procedures,” David explained. “There was even a lovely café with excellent coffee. We found the parliament by pure luck and we’re glad we did. It was fascinating – and it’s not often you have a tour that’s free!”
Our final port of call was Sydney on Cape Breton in Nova Scotia. This was Arcadia’s inaugural visit and various dignitaries came on board to mark the occasion with the presentation of a plaque. The town is small, unlike its violin sculpture, but the promenade in fresh morning sunshine was a delight and so was the wide main street with its church, homes in various pastel shades and library with free wifi. Although it was Saturday a few shops were closed, a reminder of childhood days when weekends were for families rather than commerce. Locals gazed at us with interest and more than once stopped with offers of help. One elderly gentleman engaged me in conversation about my own hometown before telling me about his. When I remarked on the friendliness of everyone, he nodded gently. “It’s the Cape Breton way” he murmured.
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Sydney |
Over a drink in Spinnaker’s that evening, Pat and Gary from Wolverhampton agreed with every word my friend had said. Both are keen Moody Blues’ fans and love exploring shops for CDs. When they asked a passer-by if there were any larger stores nearby, the man not only offered them a lift but afterwards an invitation to visit his home and meet his wife. “Blair and Wendy were such warm-hearted people,” Pat said. “They made us feel a part of their family and I know we’ll keep in touch.” After lunch of spaghetti and meatballs, Blair drove them back to town. “After such a special day I’d honestly say that Sydney was our favourite port of call!”
Half way home across the Atlantic I began to feel withdrawal symptoms. After such a magical cruise to places I never dreamed I would see, transported on a ship as warm and welcoming as Arcadia, my cruise addiction kicked in. Yes, I definitely needed to stay on for the next one to the Central Mediterranean. With winter approaching, surely some warm sunshine wouldn’t do any harm? And isn’t Venice even nicer in October? But the clincher... how could I possibly turn my back on fine dining, superb service and all that extra ice cream?
A week later, swimming in the Crystal Pool beneath a hot sun, I knew I’d made the right decision and yes,
Venice was more beautiful than ever with autumn sunshine adding sparkle to shimmering cupolas and busy gondolas.
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Venice |
As we sailed the Mediterranean shipboard life was as busy as ever. In addition to new faces amongst the passengers, there were new faces on the Palladium stage. Group Captain David Greenway, formerly Deputy Captain of the Queen’s Flight, gave a series of eleven talks about his life in the RAF. Whether he was talking (discreetly) about the challenge of transporting members of the Royal Family around the world or about his earlier career, David was always interesting. Two sessions focused on anecdotes about service life and the theatre was packed for them. His observations about the traditional superiority of pilots over their good friends, the navigators, were full of humour. “What is the definition of gross incompetence?” he asked at one point. “144 navigators!” Above the laughter he added: “Not funny for anyone under 35, of course.”
The Headliners were new as well, presenting shows as good as anything in the West End. I suppose I must have seen “Killer Queen”, a showcase for Queen’s hits, many times but this new production – from the quality of the dancing and singing to the sets, sound and lighting – was the best yet.
Sue Smith’s art classes on sea days were popular. Art packs at £20 which included watercolour paints, palette, brushes and specialist art paper, were a bargain and with them Sue was able to take us through the techniques of colour mixing before moving on to landscapes, seascapes and even a Venetian mask. Some had never lifted a brush since schooldays but thanks to Sue’s expertise and patience everyone completed paintings for the end-of-cruise exhibition.
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Art Gallery |
Arcadia has two cover charge restaurants to tease the taste buds and we decided one evening to ‘eat out’ at one of them, East on the Sun deck - Atul Kochhar’s speciality restaurant with an acclaimed menu of eastern fusion dishes. Judith, the manager, led us to our window table where waiters Rohan and Gladys provided stylish service throughout a very relaxed meal. After a free appetiser, we decided to order Atul’s signature plate, a shared starter of Cambodian hot and sweet prawns, garlic and ginger chicken, Vietnamese pork satay and stir-fried asparagus salad. The different flavours complemented each other perfectly and set the tone for the rest of the evening.
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Our starter at East |
My lamb Rendang with Indonesian-style curry, shallots, garlic and ginger was beautiful. No wonder the meat was tender – in the Indonesian region of Rendang lamb is slow-cooked for 24 hours! We were not rushed to choose our desserts and we lingered for two hours, enjoying every moment of the attention lavished on us. At £15 East is good value and it was no surprise to find that the restaurant was often fully booked days ahead.
Time ashore in ports like Dubrovnik and Valletta provided opportunities to embrace different cultures as well as discover new sights. In the World Heritage Site that is Dubrovnik, for instance, it surprised me to find, amongst all the beauty and friendliness of this walled city, church walls pock-marked with bullets, a timely reminder of the fragility of peace.
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Dubrovnik |
Back on board I attended the free iPad training sessions held in The Globe. Since Arcadia’s £40 million refit, new glass doors have been fitted to this venue with the result that it is now used for a variety of daytime activities. We all seem to have tablets but only the chosen few know how to get more than emails out of them. One of the few is Entertainment Host Alex Percival - his enthusiasm as he led the workshops was contagious and we were soon all tapping away, asking questions and feeling rather smug. I mean, did you know that with the latest software you’re able to re-instate something you’ve just deleted simply by shaking your iPad?
“This is the first time I’ve been involved in training,” Alex told me, “and the reaction has been fantastic! I say to people that they’re free to approach me at anytime with questions and, believe me, they do... in quizzes, at drinks’ parties, even ashore! But I love helping passengers to do more with their iPads than just take pictures.”
When I talk to friends about my cruises, some ask about the attraction. Isn’t it, well... boring? With 5-star service, fantastic ports, memorable sights, and so much to keep you occupied on sea days that you must plan your priorities in advance, I find it difficult to know where to start - and I haven’t even touched on the simple pleasures of resting in a comfortable armchair or sunlounger with a good book! But there’s more than all this – ships are floating communities where unexpected events add to the pleasure. Take our sailaway from Malta: I was on the aft deck when a thrush landed on a book in the hands of a man lying nearby. He froze as we stared, captivated by the sight of an exhausted bird hitching a lift to the next port.
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Our unexpected visitor! |
Two hours later the thrush had moved to the man’s hands before finally being coaxed on to a lounger where he carried on snoozing.
Before dinner I returned to check and the thrush was still there. But now he had company – two bowls of shallow water, some seed and half a scone. Talk about the kindness of strangers! Maybe there in that scene is the essence - the appeal - of what is so uniquely attractive about a cruise holiday. Perhaps it’s this that I should be telling my friends?